And Here’s Me With…

RAMADI, IRAQ — In Iraq’s western Anbar Province, President-elect Barack Obama already figures prominently in framed pictures on the walls of mudhifs, or tribal guest rooms, and is now frequently evoked in the discourse of the sheiks, or tribal leaders.

While still on the campaign trail, Mr. Obama visited Iraq in July as part of his world tour. He traveled to Anbar to meet with the Sunni Arab tribal sheiks there. The sheiks are credited with mobilizing a rebellion by tribesmen against Al Qaeda in Mesopotamia in Anbar but are now enmeshed in a power struggle among themselves and with Sunni Arab political parties.

At the mudifh of Sheik Ahmed Abu Risha, who now views himself as the paramount sheik of Anbar, copies of the sheik’s own newspaper Sahwat al-Iraq (Iraq’s Awakening) are scattered around.

“Abu Risha Congratulates Obama on his Victory,” reads the first half of the big bold headline. A photo of the sheik with Mr. Obama during his Anbar visit is splashed on the front page.

In classic tribal fashion, and to make sure the sheik covers all his bases in the event things do not pan out as expected, the second half of that same bold headline reads as follows: “And he lauds McCain as a Contemporary Leader.” The back of the paper has a photo collage of both men with the caption in big red letters: “Obama, the Lord of the White House.”

Over a breakfast of camel’s milk, honey and flat bread at his mansion, Sheik Abu Risha expresses his admiration for Mr. Obama but confides that there is a special place for President Bush in his heart.

As he talks he pulls out a pen — which bears the White House emblem and is etched with the president’s signature — from the top pocket of his tribal dress. It was given to him when he met with President Bush in June.

In Anbar and other tribal societies across Iraq and the Middle East, many sheiks and rulers view an association with Mr. Obama, President Bush, other officials in the Bush administration and the American military brass as tantamount to a badge of honor, a seal of approval, a sign of power and a source of pride among their people.

Despite all the talk about its battered and tattered reputation around the world, because of the war in Iraq to some extent, America is still regarded by Iraqis as this century’s colonial power and patron. At least by the sheiks and those who benefit from its friendship or largesse.

“We met Obama in Anbar and we told him inshallah (God willing) you win and we also told him to back the tribes and not the political parties,” Sheik Hamid al-Hayis of the Albu-Dhiab tribe pronounced in a gathering at his mudifh on Friday.

Sheiks were dressed in their finest robes and clutched sparkling worry beads. A servant passed around a first round of little cups of sugary tea, followed by a round of bitter Arabian coffee and back to a round of sugary tea.

On one wall in the mudhif were portraits of Sheik Hamid’s brother Sheik Mohammed, posing with President Bush during a visit to Washington last year.
Baghdad Bureau