.Embedded journalist gets taste of soldiers' life in Iraq
TAL AFAR, Iraq - After several weeks in Kirkuk, I felt I had a good understanding of how soldiers live here in Iraq.
Although any trip outside the wire (off the base) carries a certain amount of risk, life on the base (in Kirkuk) is quite pleasant. There is a food court, which includes a Taco Bell, in addition to a huge DFAC (dining facility) that serves Baskin-Robbins ice cream. There are air-conditioned housing units, two gyms and a pool. There is even a beauty parlor. It is not unlike a college campus, only with mortar attacks instead of keg parties.
But it was not until I visited soldiers based in a city called Tal Afar that I realized some of our guys make do with a lot less. Not only do they go without burritos and banana splits, but they have no air-conditioning and no pool! No pool! My afternoon swim went right down the toilet, which was outside and built of plywood.
Soldiers in Tal Afar are with the 1st Armored Division's Task Force 2-37 Armor Regiment, known as The Iron Dukes. I stayed with some of them at a place called the Castle. It is called the Castle because, well, it is a castle.
But the days where it might have been splendid and majestic are long gone and hard to imagine. The walls are crumbling. No feasts are being served (in fact, only one meal is served per day). No one ever showed up to fan my overheated body or feed me grapes.
But the soldiers carry on as though they had everything they needed. They are clearly made of better stuff than me.
Ironically, I was invited to Tal Afar to witness progress being made in the city. To be honest, I thought I would spend three days in an auditorium, hearing people make speeches in English translated into Arabic, or vice versa. I didn't think I'd spend much time with the soldiers, and worried I might be a little bored. I was so wrong.
I spent the first morning with Capt. Steve Wasilausky. We visited a muktar, a fellow of some importance in his community. Steve sensed this muktar might be acquainted with some bad people. His family was gathered in a front room, and we joined them on mats placed around its perimeter.
Helped by an interpreter, Steve asked the muktar about the people of the area, naming specific individuals who were suspected of wrongdoing.
Such interactions require a great deal of diplomacy and finesse. Steve knew the muktar was being less than forthcoming, but he remained calm and polite nevertheless and did what he could to forge a relationship that might prove mutually beneficial one day.
Iraqis pride themselves on being good hosts. Even though we were not exactly welcome guests, we were served a refreshing orange beverage.
Hospital tour
Next I visited the Tal Afar hospital. Capt. Tom Breslin and 1st Lt. Mark Sander accompanied me on a tour of the hospital, which has managed to function through periods of violence and continues to serve all residents of Tal Afar, whether doctor and patient are on the same political side or not.
They told me the hospital was fully independent, requiring no financial support from the United States, although it is in our interest to see that it remains a safe haven for everyone.
The hospital owes its success to a dedicated director and staff. We met with the director, a generous man who spoke with pride of his doctors. The latter are increasingly targeted by insurgents, but the staff is incredibly committed. Some live at the hospital on work days, and go home only on days off.
Massacre averted
Earlier, at the base, a radio call had come in saying a truck driver had been shot by an Iraqi soldier. The truck had overturned. The circumstances were unclear.
We went to the scene. It turned out the driver, who was wearing a suicide vest, had his truck filled with 500-600 pounds of explosives similar to those used in the Oklahoma City bombing.
He had run a checkpoint and was heading for the Iraqi Army's 3rd Brigade Headquarters. If the young soldier hadn't stopped him, the explosion would have been devastating. One soldier said he thought 50 to 100 people would have been killed.
This was a victory for the Iraqi Army and for our soldiers, who worked so hard to insure they were properly trained.
With the police
Late in the day, Capt. Josey Sandoval invited me to accompany him to the office of the chief of police, Gen. Sabah. It made sense to conduct business in the evening, after it had cooled off, only of course it hadn't cooled off. We were offered sodas and chai.
Sandoval asked how the police force was shaping up, and what issues needed addressing. Like Iraqi doctors and soldiers, the police are targets, adding another layer of complexity to an already complex situation. How is it possible to do one's job when under a constant threat of attack?
As much as I enjoyed watching Sandoval do his job, I wondered when he would call it a night. Finally, we left the chief of police to wrestle with his staffing shortages and battles with the ministry of the interior.
Beyond general questions of competence, the Sunni/Shiite issue always lurks. Ideally, the police force would reflect the population it represents, but this would require a level of cooperation that doesn't exist yet among policy makers.
With no way to escape the heat, I got little sleep. I hoped day two in Tal Afar would be fairly quiet. There was less excitement, but the soldiers never take a day off. The first part of the day was dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers.
There was a TOA (Transition of Authority) ceremony that marked the transfer of power in one section of the city from Coalition Forces to the Iraqi Army.
Present at the ceremony was the young soldier who had killed the truck-driving terrorist the day before. The more success Iraqi soldiers experience, the less our soldiers have to worry about. The TOA ceremony was a big step forward in the quest for independence.
Colorful mayor
Another important face in the leadership of Tal Afar is that of Mayor Najim. Together with a reporter for the Iraqi media, we joined the mayor for dinner.
He has a clear vision of the city he would like Tal Afar to become. Having just returned from a visit to the United States with his family, the mayor is full of ideas.
His influence is already apparent in the new buildings that are popping up around the city. They are easy to spot because they are painted in cheerful pastels. We had stopped at a ribbon-cutting ceremony for a new police station earlier in the day, and I had admired the turquoise trim.
Before he took over, virtually all of the city was dust-colored, which made sense because it is a very dusty place. But the mayor feels a splash of color is good for morale.
I told him I applauded the new palette and that I was sure Martha Stewart would approve. I'm not sure he was familiar with Martha's work, but he did ask for her e-mail address.
Good news city
For the most part, I saw nothing but good news in Tal Afar. The soldiers were poised and professional and took excellent care of me. No one wants to be the guy who loses the reporter. They invited me to tag along wherever they went.
On my third day in the city I got to join the Iraqi police for a lesson in shooting guns.
It was hot again. Very hot. Body armor is required any time soldiers venture out, and they made sure I wore mine too. I had a fairly comfortable vest which I had purchased on eBay from a UN medic, in a lovely peacekeeping blue that the mayor would have appreciated.
The Dukes didn't think it was enough protection so they found a dust-colored vest for me. It was less attractive than mine, and 10 pounds heavier. Their vests were heavier still.
There we were in 120-degree heat, carrying 30 to 50 pounds of extra weight. They patiently reviewed weapon safety and the proper way to aim and shoot, and put each of the 20 Iraqi police through several drills, then encouraged me to fire off a few rounds.
Joe Dickson, Paul Berner, and Sandoval went over gun basics with me. I am happy to report we returned to the Castle with the same number of soldiers we had at the start.
Cautious troops
Without even a minute to change from my sweat-soaked T-shirt, I was sent off to witness more good news. A small business center (painted the color of pistachio ice cream) was celebrating its grand opening.
The center contains several offices and services, including Internet access, designed to promote the creation and success of small businesses. It was an impressive and efficient concept put together in an attractive structure, one I thought many towns in the U.S. would love to have.
Finally, I reached the last stop on the Good News Express. An adult literacy center (in a shade reminiscent of lemon sherbet) had opened recently. Classes already were filling up.
We headed into the city to meet the enthusiastic students. The city is not entirely safe. A mortar attack had done damage to a popular market square less than two months ago, so a walk through the city brought a level of risk. I was never afraid, so confident was I in the soldiers' ability to protect me, but I did worry for their safety.
As we walked the several blocks through the city, I watched them scan buildings, shadows and crowds for suspicious activity, and I was impressed all over again with their dedication to their job.
Their work in Tal Afar, and all over Iraq, is so complicated. They are trying to build better cities while continuing to fight the war. They are trying to build relationships with the people of Iraq, and their compassion and generosity are evident in their actions. But at the same time they must remain ever vigilant.
At the literacy center, it was great to see classrooms full of teenagers and adults who understood the value of education, and who appreciated the opportunity our soldiers had helped to create.
I flew out of Tal Afar that night. It had been a fantastic three days. I am still overwhelmed when I think about the Dukes and their good work. It was an honor to live among the Dukes of Tal Afar, who have done so much with so little.
I will think of them every time I hear someone complain about the heat. And by someone, I mean me. I will worry about them and hope for their safe return home. Let us all hope for that.
Press-Telegram
Although any trip outside the wire (off the base) carries a certain amount of risk, life on the base (in Kirkuk) is quite pleasant. There is a food court, which includes a Taco Bell, in addition to a huge DFAC (dining facility) that serves Baskin-Robbins ice cream. There are air-conditioned housing units, two gyms and a pool. There is even a beauty parlor. It is not unlike a college campus, only with mortar attacks instead of keg parties.
But it was not until I visited soldiers based in a city called Tal Afar that I realized some of our guys make do with a lot less. Not only do they go without burritos and banana splits, but they have no air-conditioning and no pool! No pool! My afternoon swim went right down the toilet, which was outside and built of plywood.
Soldiers in Tal Afar are with the 1st Armored Division's Task Force 2-37 Armor Regiment, known as The Iron Dukes. I stayed with some of them at a place called the Castle. It is called the Castle because, well, it is a castle.
But the days where it might have been splendid and majestic are long gone and hard to imagine. The walls are crumbling. No feasts are being served (in fact, only one meal is served per day). No one ever showed up to fan my overheated body or feed me grapes.
But the soldiers carry on as though they had everything they needed. They are clearly made of better stuff than me.
Ironically, I was invited to Tal Afar to witness progress being made in the city. To be honest, I thought I would spend three days in an auditorium, hearing people make speeches in English translated into Arabic, or vice versa. I didn't think I'd spend much time with the soldiers, and worried I might be a little bored. I was so wrong.
I spent the first morning with Capt. Steve Wasilausky. We visited a muktar, a fellow of some importance in his community. Steve sensed this muktar might be acquainted with some bad people. His family was gathered in a front room, and we joined them on mats placed around its perimeter.
Helped by an interpreter, Steve asked the muktar about the people of the area, naming specific individuals who were suspected of wrongdoing.
Such interactions require a great deal of diplomacy and finesse. Steve knew the muktar was being less than forthcoming, but he remained calm and polite nevertheless and did what he could to forge a relationship that might prove mutually beneficial one day.
Iraqis pride themselves on being good hosts. Even though we were not exactly welcome guests, we were served a refreshing orange beverage.
Hospital tour
Next I visited the Tal Afar hospital. Capt. Tom Breslin and 1st Lt. Mark Sander accompanied me on a tour of the hospital, which has managed to function through periods of violence and continues to serve all residents of Tal Afar, whether doctor and patient are on the same political side or not.
They told me the hospital was fully independent, requiring no financial support from the United States, although it is in our interest to see that it remains a safe haven for everyone.
The hospital owes its success to a dedicated director and staff. We met with the director, a generous man who spoke with pride of his doctors. The latter are increasingly targeted by insurgents, but the staff is incredibly committed. Some live at the hospital on work days, and go home only on days off.
Massacre averted
Earlier, at the base, a radio call had come in saying a truck driver had been shot by an Iraqi soldier. The truck had overturned. The circumstances were unclear.
We went to the scene. It turned out the driver, who was wearing a suicide vest, had his truck filled with 500-600 pounds of explosives similar to those used in the Oklahoma City bombing.
He had run a checkpoint and was heading for the Iraqi Army's 3rd Brigade Headquarters. If the young soldier hadn't stopped him, the explosion would have been devastating. One soldier said he thought 50 to 100 people would have been killed.
This was a victory for the Iraqi Army and for our soldiers, who worked so hard to insure they were properly trained.
With the police
Late in the day, Capt. Josey Sandoval invited me to accompany him to the office of the chief of police, Gen. Sabah. It made sense to conduct business in the evening, after it had cooled off, only of course it hadn't cooled off. We were offered sodas and chai.
Sandoval asked how the police force was shaping up, and what issues needed addressing. Like Iraqi doctors and soldiers, the police are targets, adding another layer of complexity to an already complex situation. How is it possible to do one's job when under a constant threat of attack?
As much as I enjoyed watching Sandoval do his job, I wondered when he would call it a night. Finally, we left the chief of police to wrestle with his staffing shortages and battles with the ministry of the interior.
Beyond general questions of competence, the Sunni/Shiite issue always lurks. Ideally, the police force would reflect the population it represents, but this would require a level of cooperation that doesn't exist yet among policy makers.
With no way to escape the heat, I got little sleep. I hoped day two in Tal Afar would be fairly quiet. There was less excitement, but the soldiers never take a day off. The first part of the day was dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers.
There was a TOA (Transition of Authority) ceremony that marked the transfer of power in one section of the city from Coalition Forces to the Iraqi Army.
Present at the ceremony was the young soldier who had killed the truck-driving terrorist the day before. The more success Iraqi soldiers experience, the less our soldiers have to worry about. The TOA ceremony was a big step forward in the quest for independence.
Colorful mayor
Another important face in the leadership of Tal Afar is that of Mayor Najim. Together with a reporter for the Iraqi media, we joined the mayor for dinner.
He has a clear vision of the city he would like Tal Afar to become. Having just returned from a visit to the United States with his family, the mayor is full of ideas.
His influence is already apparent in the new buildings that are popping up around the city. They are easy to spot because they are painted in cheerful pastels. We had stopped at a ribbon-cutting ceremony for a new police station earlier in the day, and I had admired the turquoise trim.
Before he took over, virtually all of the city was dust-colored, which made sense because it is a very dusty place. But the mayor feels a splash of color is good for morale.
I told him I applauded the new palette and that I was sure Martha Stewart would approve. I'm not sure he was familiar with Martha's work, but he did ask for her e-mail address.
Good news city
For the most part, I saw nothing but good news in Tal Afar. The soldiers were poised and professional and took excellent care of me. No one wants to be the guy who loses the reporter. They invited me to tag along wherever they went.
On my third day in the city I got to join the Iraqi police for a lesson in shooting guns.
It was hot again. Very hot. Body armor is required any time soldiers venture out, and they made sure I wore mine too. I had a fairly comfortable vest which I had purchased on eBay from a UN medic, in a lovely peacekeeping blue that the mayor would have appreciated.
The Dukes didn't think it was enough protection so they found a dust-colored vest for me. It was less attractive than mine, and 10 pounds heavier. Their vests were heavier still.
There we were in 120-degree heat, carrying 30 to 50 pounds of extra weight. They patiently reviewed weapon safety and the proper way to aim and shoot, and put each of the 20 Iraqi police through several drills, then encouraged me to fire off a few rounds.
Joe Dickson, Paul Berner, and Sandoval went over gun basics with me. I am happy to report we returned to the Castle with the same number of soldiers we had at the start.
Cautious troops
Without even a minute to change from my sweat-soaked T-shirt, I was sent off to witness more good news. A small business center (painted the color of pistachio ice cream) was celebrating its grand opening.
The center contains several offices and services, including Internet access, designed to promote the creation and success of small businesses. It was an impressive and efficient concept put together in an attractive structure, one I thought many towns in the U.S. would love to have.
Finally, I reached the last stop on the Good News Express. An adult literacy center (in a shade reminiscent of lemon sherbet) had opened recently. Classes already were filling up.
We headed into the city to meet the enthusiastic students. The city is not entirely safe. A mortar attack had done damage to a popular market square less than two months ago, so a walk through the city brought a level of risk. I was never afraid, so confident was I in the soldiers' ability to protect me, but I did worry for their safety.
As we walked the several blocks through the city, I watched them scan buildings, shadows and crowds for suspicious activity, and I was impressed all over again with their dedication to their job.
Their work in Tal Afar, and all over Iraq, is so complicated. They are trying to build better cities while continuing to fight the war. They are trying to build relationships with the people of Iraq, and their compassion and generosity are evident in their actions. But at the same time they must remain ever vigilant.
At the literacy center, it was great to see classrooms full of teenagers and adults who understood the value of education, and who appreciated the opportunity our soldiers had helped to create.
I flew out of Tal Afar that night. It had been a fantastic three days. I am still overwhelmed when I think about the Dukes and their good work. It was an honor to live among the Dukes of Tal Afar, who have done so much with so little.
I will think of them every time I hear someone complain about the heat. And by someone, I mean me. I will worry about them and hope for their safe return home. Let us all hope for that.
Press-Telegram
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